Looking The Part

A Service to You

Upright human beings detest those willfully lacking breeding, customs and genuinely held values deeply rooted in (American) tradition and heritage. The proportion of said upright human beings varies from place to place. The gospel of sociestudliness and frattiness thus should be preached wherever there are respectable right minded men.

There are good, decent men that are being tempted into the evil world of the plebe, the GDI, a world where tradition and values are stomped on. We must however, not confuse appearance with being a true gentleman. This post allows sociestuds and fratdaddies to share an aspect of their frattitude and offer different fratdaddies and sociestuds' personal approaches, which is always a good thing.

The Clothes and the Man

One of the important aspects of being a sociestud is to look the part. No one should just wear something because everyone else is wearing it (nor should they wear anything just to be different.) Sociestuds should know however that clothing is a way of saying something about you. It is not just the statement of the clothing itself but what the choices say about the wearers sense of propriety and decision making.

Your behavior, manners, education and exposure are all more important than clothes; but with these things come certain tastes. An enlightened frugality marks any world wise man. The secret is that good clothes executed in American traditional style last longer, look better with wear and they are appropriate for a wide range of situations, always reflecting maturity and taste.

Pick through the following advice. For a few bucks you can have a serviceable wardrobe that will cover basically any social environment and activity that you should be in. The flexibility and extremely long wear of traditional items will serve you well. (Purchase your clothes a little roomy young men because they will be the basis of your wardrobe for decades maybe.) 

 We could not possibly cover everything nor would we want to. What you chose from the palette of tradition and how you wear it is up to you. If you want to hunt the clothing down at discount stores and online be our guests but you may want to find a local cleaners instead of the shop tailor for alternations.  With relative ease but more expense the duds below can also be found at any American Traditional men's store. Now, the basics and a bit more.

Grooming

When men's grooming jumped from father and son conversations or men's magazines to become the whole "metrosexual" fad there may have been some good long term consequences. (Really!) The excesses aside, many guys were in need of knowing how to to do simple masculine grooming- either going way too grungy or way too preening.

For example men who needed to do something about say, excessive hirsuteness or just in need of getting a good hair cut and shave were getting out of hand. They misinterpreted masculinity with sloppiness. Then there were the guys doing too much- mullets, fauxhawks, rocker hair, the Ricky Martin front spikes, bleached tips and hair gelled to the likeness of porcupines. A private murmur became a public scream- STOP! Nevertheless the whole "better grooming" thing was hijacked and turned fruity- evidenced by the term metrosexual itself.

Neat and conservative are the operative words for hair grooming. They are in fact the operative words for this entire write up. No one has ever went wrong with a decent haircut that left the forehead, temples, ears and back of the neck basically uncovered. Longer hair is fine but there are limits. Hair down your back and falling over your shoulders means you can stop reading this and get the operation. A shadow or more serious facial hair should be relatively even and defined. A shave should not be severe ritual blood letting- learn how to do it:

Shower; exfoliate by rubbing briskly with warm, damp wash cloth; apply pre-shave almond oil or commercial oil; in sink of warm water soak badger brush and lather (shaving soap or regular gel); with Merkur razor light, short strokes; rinse razor often in sink of water, stretch skin, shave with grain, lather again before 2x repeat; cold water rinse and pat dry; apply styptic pencil (or if you must, tissue) to any nicks; non-alcohol aftershave optional. You'll save money in the long run and you won't scratch her.

Now some of you may do just as well with a good, hefty razor and some Barbasol (menthol is a very clean odor but stay away from any other "fragrance".)  The point is that Barbasol can often do just as well almond oils, etc. shave. There is a good reason it has been around since 1920's.  The same thing for Pinaud's shaving talc, post shave.  If you are traveling or spending the night at some lucky girl's house, feel free to use disposables but remember, they are called disposables for a reason.

A stud's biggest organ needs to be as clear and vibrant as possible. The fight against chapped, burned, pale or oily skin and lips is a just one if pursued sensibly. Don't be the guy who resembles Casper nor the guy that is chancing skin cancer. Tanning should occur naturally by participating in a proper outdoor activity or by laying-out and drinking alcohol by a body of water, a process known as “bronzing.” Under no circumstances should you ever step foot in a tanning salon or use any type of spray-on tan product.

No part of you body should be pierced. You are a stud, a daddy, not a female. No man in any professional situation need wear jewelry in his ear unless he is a professional pirate. The same for social situations. The stud in your left ear says you're a not gay player right? Did you need to signal that?  That came about in the 80's, when guys sometimes wore clothing that required such specifying. Probably unnecessary; I suspect gay guys wouldn't have been caught dead in those clothes.

Body art often advertises immaturity, classlessness or low self esteem. You may argue "what if it is cannot be seen?" which begs the question "why get it?" If you have an answer for that then go ahead, do what you have to. The only appropriate answers we can think of however are crossing the equator while part of a ship's crew; as a member of an ethnic culture that includes tattooing in an initiation rite; membership in a Japanese Yakuza or some other secret society (yes we see the obvious).

Frattats? Dangerous. Trying too hard to show your fraternal ties could be a sign you're lacking in other areas. Why would you have to permanently place your letters on your person to show others how hard you frat. Also, frat tats could cause you to inadvertently break the Law of Over-lettering, which states that you should not display fraternity name/letters or the same noticeable logo on your person more than once at a time.

Shirts

Good, conservative patterned or solid colored button-down shirts can be worn with a jacket, with or without a tie while in good repair as well as a casual thing. Whites and pastels look good under blazers. White button downs are a mainstay of course.

White, blue and pink shirts, as well as white shirts with conservative patterns (see below) are the only shirts that should be worn with ties. Other pastels also may work with ties but veer towards dandyism. If you are hopelessly fair-skinned avoid white shirts. Gray shirts with a solid gray or black tie has been creeping into the picture but it is an evening look and only suitable for darker complexions. It goes without saying that a tie should be significantly darker than the shirt, so lighter shirts are more versatile.

Conservative patterns (and weaves) include tatersall, check and windowpane, gingham, pinstripe, fine stripe, chambray.  All should be cotton or linen. Linen shirts in patterns look like pajama tops so only go with solid colored linen. Short sleeve calico is also fine for casual summer wear with solid chinos and shorts. Post grad moves in dress shirts- Peruvian cotton, monograms and if you can make it work, the occasional French cuffs and "contrast collar" shirts. Contrast collars can be inexpensively sewn onto good shirts as replacements to give the shirts twice the life- old school tip of the day for post grad studs. Make sure you choose the collar that works best for you.



Polo shirts in various colors are a staple, like white button down shirts. You can put a blazer over a polo for casual situations where a jacket may still be required. The bright colors reflect an ancient history of natural dyes in the U.S. rather than a British antecedent. Polos lose their bright colors and must be replaced more often than other traditional clothes. Quality lasts longer- Brooks Bros., Lands End, L.L. Bean, Lacoste, J. Crew, Vineyard Vines, Burberry, Ralph Lauren (fades easiest) with small logos or none at all. Also, if you have a polo from one of your own clubs or associations it is even better (why give your money to a retailer or designer?) This can only work if the logo/crest is small and doesn't read as a blatant advertisement.  A polo with "Bill Hickman's Lumber" has limited wear-ability, particularly if you are not Bill Hickman Jr. 

The henley or "rowers' shirt" can stand by itself in entirely casual situations and thermal waffle knits and tee shirts are great items are great lounging around wear. They all work great either as underclothes or in very informal situations, with an open button down worn over them. Tee shirts always have sleeves of course, none of the gel head's "wife beaters". The only printed tees that are actually studly: Ducks Unlimited and other outdoor scene print tees; fraternity party or fund raiser tee; or your family business tee.  The tee that you just might wear anyway? NEON. But it better have a story.

"Hawaiian shirts" and guyaberas have been interpreted by quality retailers such as Perry Ellis and can be solid post grad moves for relaxed summer occasions, especially in the appropriate locales.  These shirts are often business wear of regions of American expansion into the Caribbean and Pacific. As an undergrad you may find you can do Tommy Bahamas items (purveyor of tropical inspired summer clothing) without being “chach”. Your studgland will have to be in high gear however and everything else should be well chosen. There is a danger level but the payoff could be GDI throat punching in its fratty, studly intensity.

I would also be open to retro Italian knit pullovers in short or ling sleeve.  They are limited as they should be worn with slacks and shoes or loafers limiting their wear.   If you are trying to hard to pull off a "Mad Men" vibe with these shirts just don't wear them.

Also note that the fine gauge turtleneck is a post grad move that is timeless . The right turtleneck and tweed jacket with high frattitude has been known to cause GDI H.E.S. (Head Exploding Situation.)

Ties and Hankies

Pin dot, repp, regimental/bar stripe, club/Masonic/fraternity tie, foulard, college tie, solid - all these ties should be in rich colors or something that represents something that means something to you. Knit ties as well print ties with game-birds and other outdoors motifs are also considered very classic and safe bets especially when worn with rough material sports coats and blazers.



We support the bowtie.  Caution, the rounded neckline of a crewneck sweater provides absolutely no framing for a when wearing a bowtie. The bowtie looks large, protruding and clownish with the crewneck.  Clownish is a no-no when wearing  the already slightly eccentric bowtie. Wearing a regimental striped bowtie with a navy Brooks sack suit, or a hunting jacket-terrific.  The herringbone bowtie with a hunting jacket is an excellent choice for the fall as is a pastel or lighter plaid in the summer.   Ditto for wearing an outdoors or club motif bowtie with a herringbone jacket. A solid tie with a v-neck or quarter zip/button sweater, a cardigan, a seersucker jacket- right, right and so right.

Hankies- one for show, one for blow. The one for blow should be bought in packs of simple, thin squares that will not make a bulge in your jacket and can be tucked away, one or two to a jacket until you have need for it. Some post grad men get monograms but it seems excessive to us and puts you at risk of breaking the Law of Over-lettering. Hankies either dress up or give life to a jacket- times you want your jacket to be more casual you should nix the hanky.

The hanky that's "for show" (i.e., the pocket square) should NOT "match" (be the same as) your tie; it "goes with", or complements ones outfit, often picking up on a particular secondary color in a shirt tie or jacket. It is particularly studly to wear an outdoor motif patterned hanky with a blazer or sports coat though it may provoke a GDI H.E.S.

A Note About Colors

Mother Nature gives us our general guide to tasteful colors. The palette of autumn tones (the colors of fall foliage); earthen tones (slates, blues, grays and tweeds and certain browns); and pastels and white with neutrals (black, navy and usually khakis and browns and tweeds) form natural groupings. Autumn tones tend to be strictly seasonal as the name suggests. The more contrasted colors of shirt and jacket the more formal and business appropriate and vice versa. Shades of primary colors and their pastels work with shirt and tie matching.

Sweaters

Crew neck and v-neck sweaters can be worn over button downs with or without ties, or over tee shirts thus making them indispensable. Some guys are either crew neck or v-neck by build. (Shawl collar sweaters by themselves or layered are another cool weather option.) Go with solid color sweaters and traditional weaves rather than stripes. A commando sweater is another option but only for jeans.

A flat, lightweight cotton cable-knit is good for jeans and khakis while a linen-cotton blend lightweight sweater in a neutral color can be brought with you in the fall and spring or cool summer evenings to throw on when it's cool with jeans, khakis or slacks thus making it something worthwhile to have. A merino wool crew neck is also soft enough to wear by itself and makes daytime or evening wear with slacks or jeans.

A few quarter zips can be layered in fall/winter with the fleece obviously being more sporty. A knit quarter zip or quarter button up can take a shirt and tie (with slacks or khakis) for a casual business situation where one might still need the layers. (See pictures upper right.)

Post grad retro moves here are to go for the semi-exotic Cowichan, Argyle, Scandanavian, Shetland and alpaca sweaters and zip / button up cardigans (cardigans should be relatively loose not tight as is an ironic style among the fruity fashionista set right now). Wear a Scandinavian sweater with a turtleneck sans coat during ski vacations. It will take you into a level of studliness seldom seem among GDI's and may cause a H.E.S.

Sweatshirts

A great piece of gear to wear around the house or at outdoor athletic pursuits is a sweatshirt with either no logo or your university's logo. You might also wear your sweatshirt when it is cold around the house, beer and grocery runs and the like. And yes, the humorous references of having a sweatshirt with just "COLLEGE" on the front has been played out for quite a while.

It is high level fratty if the sweatshirt is gray or blue and this logo is stitched on and only has the initials of your school- a purple "W", blue "Y", orange "V", black "WF" with gold trim... These things are as impossible to find these days due to GDI tastes (or lack thereof) ruling the market. Our suggestion- undergrads, have pledges get the patches and sweatshirts and sell "letterman sweatshirts" on the Row and to alumni for party money, and fratty up your campus and alum in the process.

Hoodies

The hooded sweatshirt:  This item of clothing is easily overused therefore presents and clear danger. If you earned this hooded sweatshirt as part of the warm up apparel from being active in a sport at your high school, college or professionals' rec league, etc. and it fits you than by all means wear it. But only wear it as you would any very sporty gear such as for exercising, grocery store trips, around the house and pre-shower. (Wearing it to class is the same as a girl putting her hair "into one" and pulling it through her baseball cap vent- it's okay once in a while but don't make it a habit.) The same might be said of other sporty warm-ups. For instance, wearing a "track suit" (warm up) jacket would be something only an elderly retiree in Boca or a gel headed douche from Jersey would do. But wearing your old soccer team windbreaker to pick up some groceries is fine. Pretty obvious right? The greatest of this evil is a hooded sweatshirt that comes from “The Evil A’s”… Abercrombie and American Eagle.

The Evil A's are evil because of their faddish (short lived) styling, big brand logos, tight fitting clothes (yuck!), and reverse advertising- Abercrombie: “We hate Asians”, Asians: “Now we love Abercrombie". Good grief, be better than that!  Thankfully their homoerotic advertising seems to have been effectively straightforward however, so no one should be confused including you.

Pants and shorts-

Think nice trousers that have enough breathing room to be comfortable but that will stay up without a belt (though you are going to wear a belt of course so as not to risk it.)

Bills brand khakis (chinos) are nice if they fit you properly but there are a number of solid brands and choices that are pretty inexpensive. Khakis are informal and will be worked out in your daily routine so get a pair of Go with pleats though if you’re skinny flat fronts can be okay. You can expand from the khaki color chino to navy or black but you are stretching it. (Bright chinos can be worn in the summer- especially salmon, but can also say the wearer is trying too hard.)

Bills also makes excellent khaki shorts and there is also the Ralph Lauren "Andrew" short. Patagonia makes "stand ups" which are pleatless. You can go with LL Bean's pleats or pleatless for a fhalf of the price and at least equivalent quality. You might want to go for several styles of summer material- madras, seersucker or linen. All these fabrics apparently originally come to us from the Middle East and India when the colonists demanded cooler fabrics made into British style garments but they are also rooted in American tradition. Bright and patterned shorts are also great. Keep the shorts above the knees, even if you have to get them hemmed. (The average man 5'9 would wear about a 6 inch inseam.) Give the world a slight peak at your man thigh but if you are getting older avoid the old prep school trick of showing an inch of your nifty boxers, 'cause you're all grows'd up now.  Cargo shorts are great if you are on a nature trek- but remember that cargo shorts are often frowned on in situations that more traditional shorts are fine for, like shorts friendly areas of a country club or weekend city club taproom.

Jeans- nothing is more classically American. No we are not talking about Levi’s yet; slaves were raising American Indian cotton seeds and indigo and wearing the first jeans as rough-knit work clothes. The Gap stands for all sorts of evils of mall-shopping but it probably helps to stop in to get basic things like tee shirts; they also have a great assortment of jeans and without any extra labels or designs or stitching. Levi’s and Wranglers have been around long enough for their unnecessary pocket designs not to be douchey. L.L. Bean and Bills both have great jeans. Get a few good fairly dark pairs of jeans for blazer pairing along with your more casual jeans that will be topped by a polo, etc.

Medium to lightweight wool or wool blend slacks in basic colors are a post grad necessity. They also make sports slacks that stretch for golfing, instead of wearing chinos. Linen pants: you should have 'em, especially as a post grad. And corduroys, the thiner the wale (ribbing) the more dressy.

Get some dark sweatpants and "gym shorts" for exercise. Sweatpants go with sweatshirts, hoodies, tee shirts, thermals and old crew knit tops and sneakers and work boots but no other shoes. Exercise shorts go with tee shirts and sweatshirts. And sneakers- and flip flops- at the gym or beach or for quick runs. Don't wear exercise shorts for other purposes like its all-purpose clothing.

Belts

You will need a brown and a black belt that will roughly match with your shoes. Wide belts with jeans and khakis and thinner dress belts with suits and slacks. You may also want to get some patterned canvas club , ribbon, "Indian" belts (the beaded belts can be pretty expensive now but the woven ones and Western one are reasonable) for your khakis and shorts. Ribbon and club belts are purely a summer thing but "Indians" can be worn year round. Some people try to match the buckle with the prevalent shade of their other metal accessories in business dress but let's not try too hard. They grow crocodiles and alligators on farms so go ahead and buy a dress belt in these skins if you want to match your finer billfold or briefcase.

Jackets and sports coat

Three buttons are becoming the standard. A two button or 3-2 (three buttons with the lapel rolled over the third button and button-hole making it a two button cut) are good for taller thinner guys (especially those who are on either extreme.) The 3-2 is holdover from three piece suit (vest) wearing was dominant and it still looks best with broader ties, with vests and with sweaters underneath. Sports coats and blazers are loser than suits of course and this helps with layering.

Houndstooth, tweed, glen plaid, tweed, window pane, check, corduroy, flannel... All these belong to the tradition of natural dies being used to stain tough yarn that would go into loosely cut outdoors clothing for hunting, fishing and working around the farm. The country gentry, reminding everyone how studly it is to own land, blended these clothes into their business attire and so should you. Touches such as the elbow patches and the shooting/shoulder patch were added, with the later being too specialized for business apparel. The cut is looser than a suit jacket, higher pinch and greater flare and of course vented which makes you look masculine and feel comfortable. Obviously that means that the studly/fratty quotient is off the meter. Being able to wear such sports coats at your work rather than suits is generally a sign that you are succeeding professionally.

The black and the blue blazer. Doesn't seem that much needs to be said here. Perhaps there is the button issue. As you are probably are aware, the gold naval buttons hearken to the practice of naval officers taking their gold uniform buttons and attaching them to navy colored sports coats. (In British and early American military the navy was always more highly paid and prestigious because of its unique role in assuring imperial dominance.) You may want to wear darker brass buttons instead. And get a black blazer in addition to or instead of a blue one. It can be more versatile.

All of these jackets should be bought in lighter weight. We'll explain why in the suit section.

Let us take this moment to bitch about something. The Princeton Beer Jacket, staple of the famed Princeton Reunion and the frattiest of jackets has been turned into an Asian caricature because a Mr. Edward Lin and a few Asian American students felt it would be culturally sensitive (and insensitive to deny them.)  Even the historic color of the Beer Jacket was changed from white to black to fit with the "cultural changes". Mr. Lin had his brother in high school design this eyesore and foist it upon the entire graduating class. We are saddened by the tragic circumstances befalling non-douchey Princetonians.  Yes we see the obvious joke here.   Anyway, it does teach us two things- pride should manifest itself appropriately and douchebaggery knows no bounds.  This is why we don't ever over-letter, wear frat tats or flat brim caps with a logo at all.

Suits

The American cut three button suit has been around for well over a century and is a response to the fact that we are indeed "bigger boned" than our continental friends. The suit (often broadly called the "sack suit" though the sack suit is sometimes 3/2) is cut with broader shoulders, wider chest, thicker arms, wider waists and bigger asses. It is single vented or unvented with a generous flare and relatively low waisted (compared to British suits.)

All good clothing is meant to make you look more fit, erect and better looking than you are. The American tradition of clothing adds the feature of greater comfort. This is especially true with suits.

The American suit differs from the ass and waist hugging Italian suit that also has heavily padded shoulders (Armani was a departure.) And the English suit has great details but is less comfortable than the American with its very closely tailored shoulders and high arm-hole cut (though the English and Europeans have been adopting the American cut for decades now as they develop "American physiques".) Many Italian labels now execute the American suit better than many American designers and tailors.

This is one of the times where it is best to play against your form whatever it is. If you are very angular you may want to wear more rounded shoulders and if you are more curved in silhouette you may want to wear the more crisp cut. The range of American suit cuts tends to work much better across the board however.

You will want to get (waist, side of the ribs) "pinch" and corresponding (hip) flare as is comfortable (no pulling or tightness whatsoever) and sightly thus giving you a more manly, fit outline. You should be able to move in a moderate range of natural motions without pull. While standing normally you will definitely not want any real gapping around the neck or puckering in the outer biceps because of excessive shoulder padding width. The jacket length should cover most if not all of your ass but look in the mirror to see where is best for you. The sleeves hit the fleshy base at your thumb when your arms are hanging by your side. If you will be doing waistcoat/vest of a three piece you need more room. Few people do nowadays, but if you actually get a rough material suit (tweed, corduroy, etc.) instead of just jackets in these materials, allow for more room. Your pants have the traditional slight break at the lower shins and ride just below the belly button.  Note: the casual option of having your pants slightly short so there is no break is just that- casual; done with a suit you will look like a 1960's soul singer.  Your tailor will make it happen for you but younger studs may have to make this happen by prudent (cough) off the rack choices. Beware of chain store tailors' advice.

Suits should be brought in shades of dark blue and gray with pinstripes and chalk stripes to give more variety. The stripes should always be subtle, the pattern not being noticeable unless close up. These dark suits are the most conservative part of your wardrobe and thus are best for interviewing. Taupe and seersucker for spring and summer are great options. Glen plaid, check and windowpane suits are also great suit moves, good departures from dark blue and gray while still being conservative.

Seersucker suits are great if you can pull them off. We love old seersucker and suggest that the seersucker suit jacket to be used independently as well; wear with lightweight navy or taupe slacks to go with the stripes of the jacket, or off white linen pants. The pants can be worn with a navy jacket and suede bucks in the summer. Let us thank the people of India for enduring colonialism so that we all might enjoy this wonderful fabric.

SPECIAL NOTE: Buy lighter weight suits and jackets even for winter because you can always layer clothing but you can't make your suit lighter. You don't want to be the sweaty guy in warmer rooms and offices. Today dark wools suits and tweeds, etc. are made in lighter weights and blends (usually some linen and silk.) Think lighter mid-weight worsted wool (gabardine). High twist fabrics are usually a bit more breathable and light while not wrinkling. Finer knits generally drape better and look a bit more finished but now they can be light and breathable as well.

Another piece of advice, buy an extra pair of pants or two if they are available. The pants go first- an ink stained chair, dog paw muck, tire changing muck or just wear. Tailors usually include the extra pair as part of the suit but the well stocked men's retailer often carries suit bottoms in an array of patterns that you can match with the suit.

Never buy an old Italian/Continental cut suit with the tight ass, tight unvented hips, high crotch and giant shoulders. Never. Today even Italians/Continentals cut their clothes with the English or American cut for the American market because they know we're not going that route.

Tuxedos

Black tux with eggshell jacket for the summer. Keep it conservative and save your self expression for studs, cuff links and cummerbunds. You can rent if you want but if you use a tux a few times your will pay for buying one. While a tux is a more than worthwhile investment you can buy them used if you are a young fella that rented one and found you like it but don't want to spend the extra dough. See the guys at your local formal store.

You can go with the traditional black cummerbund and tie of course which not only is safe but looks understated and doesn't draw attention to a healthy grown belly. While less formal bright cummerbunds are not only acceptable but traditional. The tradition of cummerbunds is rooted in British wearing their regiment colors as "like native sashes" in India and the Middle East. White tie is its own dress form and is very rare- again, see a fine formal wear store.

Overcoat

For the younger fellow a better pea-coat aka reefing coat (never leather), a duffle coat or (personal preference) a camel, charcoal or gray single breasted if your needs are more flexible for putting on over a jacket and over just a shirt or sweater. Knee or upper thigh are better than three quarter length in our opinion but you may find different. A double breasted gray or charcoal, knee length is a good post grad move but only if it looks right on you. Wool or wool and cashmere blends are best. Cashmere is warmer to wool of the equivalent weight and thickness.

A raincoat won't cost you much and in lots of weather it can be an alternative to an overcoat- just don't go Tom Townsend.

A better trench coat or raincoat may have detachable, replaceable collars. You can depend upon those collars to be carried for at the very least a dozen years at clothing stores and your coat should last for the almost as long so it’s worth it. A comforting feature in our disposable world.

Winter Outdoors Coats and vests

A suede car coat is sophisticated (and can be expensive though not good in the rain and not cut to go over a jacket) thus making it a good post-grad choice. Suede can be treated against rain but you may still be in need of a heavier coat.

You are going to want to have some of the following- a parka, a performance fleece vest and a light jacket. Columbia, Patagonia, LL Bean, Orvis, North Face, etc. make excellent gear in these areas. Windbreakers have a wider selection of makers (and we include the safari jacket for post grads in extreme Southern latitudes.)

Parkas or anoraks will keep you warm in brutal northern climes during winter and will have the extra benefit of being something to wear for the mountain slopes. We ask all those outside of northern/Alpine climes to forgo wearing ski parkas over sports coats and suits "like they do in Aspen". (Our jurisdiction over Alpine climatic locales is limited.)

A Navajo "Pendleton jacket" is immensely studly. It will open up the conversation to say that you are "part (insert American Indian tribe here)" because nothing is as fratty and studly as to hold primacy on how deep your roots are in America. You may find these at Orvis or online. They look best when you choose a blanket and have it custom made. Caution: walking into a room of GDI's with this on can result in so many head explosions that you could be tried for murder.

Wearing our camo hunting coat is so sociestudly that we can barely stand it ourselves. LL Bean, Cabelas or Orvis. We also keep our military spec poncho in the truck.

Bulletin: We are rejecting Orvis-Barbour oilcloth (who are we kidding, we love them) and Laksen wool hunting jackets. We would rather go strictly with American field clothes such as those offered through LL Bean and Cabela's and mix it in with business wear. (The fellow to the left, pointing out his English tweed field jacket's advantages. Those damned British, we whipped 'em once, we'll do it again.)

Shoes

Moccasins / boat shoes / Topsiders. Need we say more? They will last forever, get better with age. These puppies go with jeans, khakis or shorts like a horse and saddle. A more urbane / cool version is the driving moc. Timberland makes a lug sole version good for long walks on rocky or bad pavement.

Get your city shoes with a thicker rubber sole. (Italian shoemakers love to use thin soles and wood/leather soles which are torture for walking on pavement.) For long lasting dress shoes and shoes for wider feet, mismatch sized feet, etc. try the Allen-Edmonds store. They also refurbish their shoes for cheap and make them look new for a decade or two. You can get shoes for cheaper at the local discounter if your feet are easy to fit.

Cap-toes or whole-cuts for business. (Black cap toes and whole cuts can be polished to a high shine and used with a tux.) We all know the rules about color coordinating shoes with suits. Another tip- whole cuts are a bad move for people with big feet.

Get "Topy" sole guards on your dress shoes. They protect your soles from gravelly pavement and keep you from sliding on iron grates, ice, etc., particularly the later. They have the additional benefit of longer life for shoes that took you a while to find and feel perfectly comfortable with.

You need at least New B’s (New Balance) or Asics cross trainers for your feet for athletic endeavors. Some guys need more specialized shoes for running and everyone for golf (so golf shoes) but specialized athletic shoes for other sports are best saved for guys on athletic scholarship. All white K-Swiss sneakers are also great for just wearing around.

Suede bucks make linen seem unpretentious, chinos seem more dressed than with mocs and linen can seldom find a better friend.

Post grad super-studly move here can be wing tips, especially those custom made. It may seem like a boatload of money but you and the shoe maker can develop a relationship around keeping these incredibly comfortable shoes looking great for a decade, making them best bargain in your shoe closet. You will want to pull them out especially when your feet need comfort and you need to look mature.

Flip flops are a necessity- a more substantial pair for wearing in those very informal weekend situations and get a cheap (thus disposable) pair for the shower at the gym and another for around the house.

Patent leather formal shoes. Nothing makes a tux shine more.

Moc type shoes should be worn without socks especially if they are being worn with shorts. Sandals of any sort should be worn without socks of course. Frequent insole changes are a must. Athletic shoes require the lowest ankle socks. All the other (dressier) shoes, require dress socks matching the pants preferably or shoe. Do argyle socks if you like, it can actually be stylish.

Oh, the clog Birkenstocks and Crocs are like calling a respectable girl derogatory names. She won't get past these to hear anything you have to say, and rightfully so.

Boots

Wallabies (which straddle shoe and boots) are optional, black ankle boots and work-style boots are more essential. (For hunting boots and waders, etc. see Cabelas. For riding boots see Texas A&M.) Most of the shoes and their uses speak for themselves. Snow-boots can sometimes be a necessity and LL Bean will solve your needs there. Needless to say if you have to wear them you should avoid doing so in business clothing. A convention in the Northeast, Midwest and Canada has been to wear work-boots, the sort of tan, brown or black work-boots to get through the muddy slushy city after snow while wearing a suit. Senator Webb and Ambassador Bremer gave it wider legitimacy though wearing boots for very different reasons. It seems that golashes and other such pull-overs are just too much to deal with carrying. We suggest you move- or go with your boots if you have to.

 Hats

The baseball cap and visor- The only truly safe caps and visors are those that come not from the outdoor equipment variety, rather those that are most at home on the golf course. (Sorry John Deere.)

Visors are much more acceptable in general on the golf course or other sporting outside activities than they are in other casual situations.

A safer bet is the traditional baseball style cap. As for style, as always, the word is “conservative”. Caps such as those made by Vineyard Vines, Brooks Bros. etc., or your family business or local country club or hunting outfitter are great for this purpose. You can find such caps that are entirely one color with the exception of a small logo in their front center. Obviously a neutral color- white, black and especially khaki are the most flexible. The ever popular “game day cap” (a well worn university logo or Greek Letter cap) is also money.

The skull cap/ watch cap for very cold weather is a matter of necessity thus not up for arguing.  if you wear it out of season or sitting on your head like a smurf please take this moment to start slapping yourself until you pass out while swearing to never, ever do such a thing again.  And keep these caps free of noticeable logos and also try to find one in a finer gauge for the sake of looks and warmth. Flat cable knits are cool too.

Two risky but sometimes frattastic pieces of head gear are plaid / tweed driving caps (the more dressy form of a newsboy) and the bucket cap. You will be a rare man that can make the driving cap work (complement with classic masculine looks, not hipster. Either tweedy jackets or car-coats or classic woolen sweaters.) The bucket is safer during those summer great outdoors weekends- while doing something outdoorsy. You are still walking on thin ice trying to pull it off however. More post grad studly options are the high quality straw hat for days in the blazing sun; and a tweed trilby in the winter if you must wear a full brim winter hat with business clothing.

A top hat will tell you when it should be worn- you won't have to tell it.

Sunglasses, Glasses (and Croakies)

Sunglasses and glasses have to fit your face. I’d look at something versatile if I wanted to have a main pair of sunglasses to dress up and to go casual in- thus Ray-Ban Wayfarers in tortoise or black or Aviators. Maui Jim is also a solid maker of some versatile glasses while Costa del Mar and Bolle are legit picks in sporting-shades. All protect against ultraviolet radiation, blue light and intense light. There may be something more affordable but remember, you're talking about your eyes; and good shades are more necessity than an accessory.

Prescription glasses wearer? Think about getting adjusting tint prescription lenses in Wayfarers, Aviators or like frames. You will have everything rolled into one and you will be compelled to always wear them. Your poor vision will have made your stud-sense keener.

Business wear and sports sunglasses are a glaring no-no. It looks plain douchey. Raybans and aviators can do sports, casual and business. Sports sunglasses can’t. People rockin’ Costas sports sunglasses with business wear look either too poor to buy various styles or too immature to know the difference.

We are not going to deal in the world of glasses much more since it is really a matter or trying them on to see if they match with your face shape, complexion and features. We will however urge the wearer to either go with glasses than either blend into the face very well or that make a strong statement. The heavier black, brown and tortoise shell frames of yesteryear made glasses an attribute, not corrective wear. Half of Barry Goldwater's votes were actually for his glasses.

Croakies (glasses lanyards), whether neoprene sports versions, the cotton covered "chums" or cords are extremely handy. Your jacket's breast pocket will be filled with pocket squares so you need a place to put your quality shades or glasses when you're wearing a tie or don't want to risk them falling (off your head or collar.) Cord and suede croakies are suitable for less sporty sunglasses and glasses environments as well as the outdoors. There are even houndstooth croakies. Get used to militantly wearing or having ready access to shades unless you changed your clothes after sundown.

Inclement weather accessories

Gloves, umbrellas and scarves. Just as you need one hanky for show and one hanky for blow you need an extra small, wood-handled umbrella in the back of your ride and at your place. It should be inexpensive because she may not bring it back. You may also get a sturdy plaid umbrella but black is your best bet. Fraternity umbrellas are great but you may risk a Law of Over-lettering faux pas.

Black gloves, the more shaped to the hand the better. You may also want a brown color pair of gloves, especially if you own a camel coat- but it isn't necessary. The non-finger end of a pair of leather gloves carelessly peaking out of a patch-pocket on a suede car coat is a good look. Don’t forget to hold your gloves in your hand insouciantly, putting that hand on you hip and modestly gesturing with it. It is a favorite move of yesteryear that is still valid today and is the equivalent of “authoritative hand gestures” just with more panache. (Insouciance and panache in the same paragraph means we must move on.)

Match the scarf with the gloves for business attire. The paisley silk scarf and school colors muffler- give the first to your girlfriend or Mom and save the other one for more informal wear. We realize some of you will want to argue here but you’re wrong.

House wear

You may be able to sleep in your Umbros or boxers and (add the event or location) commemorative tee but you need to get a couple of bathrobes or maybe three (for your female house guests that you pretend is one of your extras.) You need two terrycloth robes for winter and summer and they should be absorbent enough to get you out the shower and presentable enough to get you to the end of your driveway or kitchen when there are guests. Post grad move- matching color slippers.

Watches, Jewelry

Studly accessories are limited but of high quality. Watch, cuff links, tux shirt studs and tie tacks of course. You might as well get a good watch since it will last a lifetime.

Besides that maybe a chain with a memento that will usually not be seen.

A ring (wedding bands obviously) or something that better have serious significance,- for instance, given to you by your daddy from your granddaddy. And even then your granddaddy better have had taste. Signet rings have their own rules: pinky or ring finger for Britain and America for crest or initials; ring finger for European crests. A piece of ethnic jewelry is fine if it isn’t overly ornate and it something meaningful to you.

  
A good watch is one that can be passed down generations and is perfectly studly. While quality watchmakers make some flashy or gaudy pieces that should not lead you to believe that their mainstays are not fratty. (Hint: don’t even think of a gemstone on it or too many baubles or functions.) You can surely get one that is relatively inexpensive with frattitude. Tag Huer, Breitling, Rolex, Cartier, Ebel, Longines, Patek, etc. all have used watches that are timeless and a few relatively inexpensive models. Raymond Weil, Tissot, ESQ, Bulova, Swiss Victorinox are generally less expensive quality brands. There are Japanese brands that are good too, such as Citizen but they have had problems with poor quality knock-offs so beware.  Watches can attract the lower element and a robbery, so also beware.

It was a time that a simple black band Timex with a suit or jacket said American understated and thus great. A vintage Timex paired with a new crocodile band has all the classic-ness and you'll probably spend no more than a $50. If it keeps ticking it is sure to increase value in 50 years and you've preserved distinctly American style. If it doesn't keep ticking for more than a year or two it lasted as long as a Fossil and it held you over as you saved up for a Swiss piece. Contemporary Timex also makes good sports watches. You need one of those too.

It's not jewelry per se but get a good manly pen. And buy the extra refills when you buy it. But don't pay much money because the whole world wants to steal it. There are workable knock-offs to Waterman, Mount blanc, Cross and Parker pens that have fooled our sharp eyes at first glance. Post grad move- quality lighters if only for the girl outside the bar and your own occasional stogie.

Wallet, Bags, Briefcases & Attaches, Money-Clips

A wallet or billfold should just carry necessities that you will reasonably need. The bulging men's wallet is like the woman's bag lady over full purse. Not only can it spoil your manly line and signal crooks on the street but it can also make unsightly marks in your pants back pocket. Many people find that they can just carry a money clip especially when they are not wearing a jacket.

If you need a billfold we recommend that you consider matching it roughly with shoes and belt leather. Sure it may be going overboard and it’s definitely a post grad move. It may also be a consideration to go with the reptile skin as earlier recommended. The skin is tough and these wallets and billfolds are made to last a half century or more, especially with a little care and visits to the shoe maker/ leather worker; that means the item can usually be passed down. Try Barneys New York or other men's stores.

Backpacks. See makers of outwear. You can seldom go wrong with a North Face, LL Bean, etc. backpack in black. A portfolio or messenger-bag also works. Small fraternity letters or logos may work if you must but keep in mind the Law of Over-lettering.

It is the post grad transition where young studs run into problems. Think thick, high quality leather, (black brown burgundy) that hopefully matches the color of your shoes though you shouldn’t strain there. Not only will a briefcase keep your materials organized, but a quality briefcase will make a good impression on your potential employer. A nice briefcase will complete your image as professional. There are a lot of functional soft briefcases you should buy if you’re going to be flying around, hoofing it and commuting on public transportation. The shoulder strap will come in handy worker bee.

The hard-sided briefcase however is still the undisputed power briefcase. The combination lock alone says "I do important work". Visualize an attorney walking up with a shoulder strap dangling (or worse strapped over his shoulder like burden), the soft briefcase slumping at the corners. Then picture that an attorney swinging a pebbled leather hard-side security briefcase in his fist on the stairs of the big old courthouse. Which do you think looks more of the imposing professional? Yeah, we think so too.

Oh, and have a gym bag for the gym clothes, preferably some college or high school athletic team bag but a small duffle will do.

Fragrance

First rule on this topic is the writer of this section doesn't want anyone to smell like him. That is why he isn't going to mention his favorites.

You already know about musk, frankincense, sandalwood, cedar and hardwoods, citrus, apple, leather, tobacco, spices, etc. These are the smells of your manly life- or should be- and she should be attracted by it. What matters is that you try it on, walk around and having mix with your natural smell, had a couple of girls tell you what they thought and employed your own nose as well.

One move for cost watching is to wear Pinaud Clubman products- the products that all high quality, old school barbers use. They are inexpensive, in your local drugstore but unbelievably classic and thus studly.

Make sure you aren't overdoing it.  Just spray on a little on your skin before you put on clothes so that it mixes with you and rises with increases in your body temperature. You're using a lighter crisper scent for summer and work and a muskier scent for the evening. Avoid Drakkar Noir because while the scent is good it is a favorite of gel heads. Go for traditional scents.

And avoid Creed and summer / weekend use of Royall Cologne products because of the first rule. (Or Fahrenheit in the evening.) Or at least don't be around the writer of this piece while you are wearing it.

Editor's note: Due to the large amount of feedback we discussed making these topics a regular discussion but frankly it would require another blog and none of us are paid to do this.